But all day I've been having trouble riding them - Nugget won't be led with packs on - he just trots ahead then the lead rope pulls him around - we can't travel in a straight line! And I've found the packs only need to be the slightest bit unbalanced, and the whole lot goes under - as it did again today - no matter how tight that girth strap is! I had real trouble getting the tangled web off him with the weight hanging under him. Well, as one bloke at the bar said today, they'll quieten right down on the trail - obviously, but my problem is getting started. So a very disheartened lad stood there watching his nags this morning, took a step back and analysed he situation. I can do this! I'm determined.

I need to learn how to pack the second saddle so that it won't slip, and may have to drastically change my plans for teaching them to lead. So far, simply having Nugget's lead rope come around in front of Sarah's neck has worked - without packs - but then he is too worked up, and races ahead - even having it double-wrapped just brings him in beside me. And neither of them is really capable of being ridden separately - Sarah is just a little bitch always trying to turn back, and well, I just don't feel secure on Nugget although I had a few good goes today. He shies terribly from anything, and can't seem to travel in a straight line along the road. At one stage I even thought he was blind in one eye!

Seeing my carefully laid plans being totally ruined, I was devastated. Just in time, I met Terry. Terry lives in a decrepit old bus with his young wife (he's about 50, she's mid 20s - 30) and two beautiful children,Sonja and Aysir. A true gypsy family. He invited me in for a coffee... what an experience!

One step inside the bus and I was in another world; first the kitchen - fully functional and I guess the only thing that struck me about the whole set-up was spaciousness - it was very roomy. Then living room and finally a huge double bed built into the back... but ornate woodwork and plush carpets. I could have sworn I was in a fancy apartment! Then outside into the annexe, which also, amazingly, had the feel of a "room" - comfortable chairs, thick canvas and screen walls,floor covering, furniture. And kids clambering over everything. We talked all afternoon, about our lives and plans. Tomorrow morning we're going riding together -him on Sarah and (fingers crossed) me on Nugget. We're going to figure these two out once and for all!!

Lions Den Tues 7th June

I guess I should be putting the day as well as date - once I'm out there I may lose track! At last, a fine albeit misty day. But not a day for action. I'd spent all of last night thinking about my conversations with Terry, then about my feelings about this journey, and have decided to stay here in Helenvale for another week.

Riding with Terry every day, moving the horses into next door's paddock, and best of all, being here for the Cooktown festival this weekend. I was thinking of riding up for that - it'd be fantastic riding through the streets during their re-enactment scenes! But they would be a problem too, so I'm leaving them here and hitch-hiking up for a night. Terry and I went for a couple of good rides today - it was very enjoyable and worthwhile as far as getting them to know me and each other. First up to Wilma's, training them to cross wooden bridges (!) - Terry dropped his milk coming back down. We stopped for a coffee and chat, before cantering off to one of Terry's secret spots - an isolated waterfall where he spends a few hours each day with his dog in the "sauna"! After hearing about Terry's past, his family fortunes, etc, I briefly wondered why he was living like this. Then I spent a day with him.

I packed Sarah this arvo and she seems fine with it. Since I'm now staying a week I'll really be working them every day - getting all of us fit and prepared for a very long journey. And another revelation today.... It's not the destination that's important, it's the journey.. .something I've lost track of...! should be thinking in terms of time if anything is limiting. Why Melbourne anyway? Hell, I'm going to have a good time wherever I go.


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